Be A Guest

A drab, rundown piece of property sat seven yearsin Mendocino County. His nearly 600 acre estate is
on the market. Since my visit in 2003 it gained anhidden, too, just north of the ranch. There are many
amenity a year, instituted by the Gaines family, ownersvintners in the area if you want to go off on a wine
since 1987. It's a progressive hide-away and I doubttasting trip, but at dinner meals you can taste as much
they'll be running out of room to continue furtheras you want at the ranch.How to get there.There are
additions. Highland Ranch is tucked away next totwo entrances to the ranch, the north and the south. I
Hendy Woods State Park featuring a hundred miles ofdrove in from the south, taking Highway 101 out of San
trails in an old growth redwood forest. It sits a mile andFrancisco, across the Golden Gate Bridge, through
half as the crow flies above Philo, California at anSausalito, Petaluma, and Rohnert Park. At junction 128
elevation of 1000 feet obscured further by surroundingWest where a grand redwood lumber mill sits, turn left.
apple orchards, vineyards, and nearby olive orchards inFollow that road approximately one mile and turn right.
Anderson Valley, Mendocino County. Californians callThis is the actual Highway 128 and Philo is twenty-five
this the North Shore.This ranch stands alone for beingmore miles. Watch for the town of Booneville and you'll
the oldest working guest ranch in the hills there. It's notknow you are headed in the right direction.It is a
an architectural masterpiece, but its countenance takesnarrow and winding road, doted on by sentinels of
a person back to the 'good old days'. You see, I'meucalyptus, redwood, conifer and oak forming a
from Wyoming and I've seen plenty of ranches andcanopy. You're engulfed as you maneuver the twists
even worked on some, so I was really taken back.and turns. It's a leisurely, constitutional drive that will
The fully restored yellow, hundred-year-old ranch isstroke you with shade and slap you awake if you get
welcoming and cozy. You might think about taking atoo lulled, with glimpses of sun.Philo is a small grower's
peek. The down-home, friendly atmosphere and homecommunity and in the middle of town at 8500 Highway
cooked gourmet meals brings returning guests year128 you can turn left to the private entrance of the
after year.According to George Gaines when heranch. The landmark is the Union 76 gas station. You'll
purchased the property the roof sagged and weedsneed the gate code to go this way, so call ahead for it.
grew through the porch, walls and windows. HeYou'll reach a "Y", where the road turns to dirt. Stay to
commented that he wasn't too concerned over coststhe left here.If you get to the locked iron gate without a
at the time, because, after all, the water was freecode, you might be glad you did. Driving over a skinny,
when it rained. I found George quite amusingone-lane bridge with rapids below racked my nerves. If
considering he is a Princeton alumnus and retiredthis happens, turn around, and take the north entrance.
lawyer.Walls in the main house are adorned with theIf you continue on here, once you are through the gate
life and times of the Gaines family antics and ayou'll crest a hill where the road turns right and drops
collection of George's well-worn hats. Historical picturesto view the main yellow ranch house, stables, and
dot the walls, including a photo of his days as thecabins.The north entrance has the "Highland Ranch"
Captain of Princeton's rowing team taken in thesign by it. It is about twelve miles north of the gas
1950s.There were a lot of favored parts of my trip; thestation, and again you will have to hang a left. It is a
solitude and scenery alone, made my heart throb,winding,uphill climb through the woods on another dirt
much less the offering of a "welcome home"road. You might feel lost, as I did, but if you turned at
atmosphere. It was my first taste of that particular partthe sign, you're on the right trail.Locals make regular
of the California coastal mountains and I drank it all intrips to relax with a meal served home-style and
on horseback. I retract that, I drank more in on wine,casual in the expansive dining area, three times a day.
too.I received a "grape" education. The climate isThe kitchen is equipped with a commercial stove and
indeed cool in October. I learned the well-drained soiloven, an island cutting table, sinks and handy pots
conditions and coolness offer growers anhanging overhead giving an "old World" feel. The dining
envrironment similar to Champagne, France. (By allroom has three long tables with a mix of period chairs
means, take long-johns.). Here grapes mature slowlyencircling each one. An interesting collection of plates
balancing acid and sugar.It seemed everyone stayeddots every wall and cornice. The view through the
somewhat to themselves to relax or just take care ofwindows in the dining room showcase the flower
business. According to reports a fifth generationgarden, hummingbird feeders, and fruit weighing down
Roederer searched since the late 70s for enviromentalgrapevines and fig trees in October.
conditions similar to his French property and he found it