| In my capacity as the UK Director of
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| | or urgency to be somewhere at a certain
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| Operations for One World Tours Limited, I
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| | time (apart from us of course!) so many
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| am often asked about the destinations I
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| | people tolerating one another it was
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| have been to and how it all began in the
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| | incredible.
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| first place. 10 years ago I embarked on
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| | I had recovered a little after having
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| my second trip around the world and I
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| | something to drink and was as excited to
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| suppose you could say that this is where
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| | see eagles flying around in the sky. I
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| it truly all began. Here is my first
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| | watched as people threw bananas to the
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| experience of India.
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| | wild monkeys in the same way as we feed
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| I thought that visiting the Seven
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| | the ducks back home.
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| Wonders of the world in eight days would
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| | Everywhere you looked people were making
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| be a fun and challenging thing to do.
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| | good use of all the resources around
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| Having decided with my sponsors the
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| | them. Once we had broken free from the
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| airlines and a chain of leading
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| | towns I had a chance to take notice of
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| world-wide hotels it was decided that the
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| | the countryside. It was fascinating to
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| Seven Wonders of the World were the Taj
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| | see the Indian ladies with huge loads
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| Mahal, the Great Wall of China, the
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| | balanced on their heads whilst carrying
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| Leaning Tower of Pisa, the Golden Gate
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| | their babies in their arms. It was a
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| Bridge, The Empire State Building, Sydney
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| | wonderful thing to experience and would
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| Opera House and the Pyramids of Egypt.
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| | have been perfect if only it wasn't so
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| This would notch up a staggering 42,000
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| | difficult to breathe. Seeing the way that
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| miles in 8 just days.
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| | life was lived in India made me realise
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| The first of my many flights was on
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| | what a bunch of whingers we are in the
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| schedule and I left Heathrow at around
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| | west!
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| 10.25pm on the 17th of February. I was
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| | We were only 11 kilometres from reaching
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| handed my overnight package by the
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| | the Taj Mahal when we experienced a huge
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| stewardess and given a meal. It didn't
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| | traffic jam that even the psychopathic
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| take long before I drifted off to sleep;
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| | driver could not get me through! He had a
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| I had deliberately got myself up early
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| | few frantic words with one of the locals
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| that morning to ensure that I would be
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| | and informed me that the road was blocked
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| able to sleep on the first flight. I
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| | due to the fact that two ministers were
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| awoke half way through the flight feeling
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| | visiting the area.
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| incredibly nauseous but that was down to
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| | Ashok did a sharp U- turn and tried to
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| the anti- malaria tablets more than
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| | find an alternative route. Unfortunately
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| anything else.
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| | there wasn't one and we had to wait
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| It wasn't long before I arrived at Delhi
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| | patiently in the queue like everyone
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| airport and in order to continue on to
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| | else. The driver had driven his socks off
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| the next stage of the journey I had to
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| | to get me to within an 11-kilometre
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| find out how much a taxi would cost to
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| | radius of the Taj with time to spare, and
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| take me to Agra and back. There were
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| | for one horrible moment it looked as if I
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| plenty of transport kiosks whose
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| | was not going to get any closer. It was
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| occupants frantically beckoned to me in
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| | an awful shame because he had risked our
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| order to persuade me to use their
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| | lives along with those of the others we
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| services. The first one that caught my
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| | passed along the way, including the
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| attention offered me his "top of the
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| | animals! He must have felt the same but
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| range car", which included air-
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| | wasn't that easily defeated. Not long
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| conditioning. I gladly accepted this as
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| | after I finally arrived at the first
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| it worked out at half the price I had
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| | major landmark of the trip! Ashok dropped
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| expected to pay. I was then told
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| | me off and said that he would find
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| apologetically that this car was not
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| | somewhere to park and allowed just 15
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| available and was offered the next best
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| | minutes to take photos etc. I paid the
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| thing at a cheaper rate, still with air
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| | entrance fee; the equivalent of 75 pence,
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| conditioning. Apparently this car was not
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| | received a free key ring and made my way
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| available either and this went on until I
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| | to the Taj, ande had my bags searched by
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| was finally offered their cheapest car of
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| | the guards.
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| all, which by this time I would have
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| | I was very impressed by the stunning
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| agreed to anything. The driver of this
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| | creation of love that stood before me,
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| particular vehicle was summoned and
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| | definitely the stuff that fairytales are
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| flatly refused to take me saying that it
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| | made of! I was aware that I did not have
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| would not be possible to get to Agra and
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| | too much time so quickly set about taking
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| back in time to get me to my next flight.
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| | photographs of the beauty before me in
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| It was beginning to look like I was not
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| | order to satisfy the publicity
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| going to get to visit the very first
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| | requirements for my sponsors.
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| Wonder on the list! The taxi drivers of
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| | I had designed a banner, which was to be
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| this particular kiosk told me that I
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| | photographed at each of the locations.
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| should try a different kiosk, which is
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| | When I unfolded it in the grounds of the
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| exactly what ended up doing. I was told
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| | Taj Mahal I was told very abruptly that
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| that there was a driver willing to
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| | banners were not acceptable and that the
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| attempt to take me the 300 miles in about
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| | guards at the front gate should have
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| 8 ½ hours for the price of £130 (GBP).
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| | taken it away from me. Someone did show
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| I did not really have choice and was
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| | me somewhere that I could hold the banner
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| still £70 better off than I thought. We
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| | up in order to take a quick photograph
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| were whisked off to meet our driver for
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| | but I declined agreeing that I should
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| the day and the man that would hopefully
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| | respect their wishes, as I was a visitor
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| make it possible for us to reach our
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| | of their country. The banner gave a brief
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| first Wonder of the trip.
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| | outline of the trip and advertised the
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| It soon became very apparent that if
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| | sponsor's names but they weren't to know
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| anyone was going to get me there and back
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| | that it could have been a political
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| in time it would most certainly be Ashok,
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| | statement for all they knew. I also
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| the driver. I was barely three minutes
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| | couldn't risk getting into trouble so
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| from the airport when he started honking
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| | early on in the trip!
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| his horn like crazy. At first I thought
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| | I took enough photographs to prove that
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| this was a sign of aggression as is
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| | we had been there, along with a duplicate
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| customary in our native country. I truly
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| | set in case the first ones did not come
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| believed at one point that I was going to
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| | out and then one more lot for luck! The
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| die in this foreign country due to manic
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| | sun was beginning to set and it gave
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| way that Ashok handled the car. Where
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| | everything around that wonderful orange
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| ever possible he drove like a man
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| | glow, a fitting end to a brief but
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| possessed reaching speeds of up to 120mph
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| | memorable experience.
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| in some cases. This of course made me
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| | As promised Ashok was waiting for me and
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| very apprehensive for the first hour or
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| | guided me back to the cab. A throng of
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| so of the journey, my underpants taking
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| | brown -faced children begged me to
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| the full impact of my lack of faith!
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| | purchase their wares. They surrounded me,
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| There did not appear to be any rules and
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| | I found it a little overwhelming to say
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| regulations where driving in India was
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| | the least. I was not sure if we had
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| concerned, Ashok seemed to make up his
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| | enough money to complete the trip at this
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| own rules as he went along. Hitting bumps
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| | moment in time so I couldn't afford to
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| in the road at speed saw me bashing my
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| | give away one penny of what I did have so
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| head on the roof on more than one
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| | I kept having to refuse them. Their
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| occasion. I remember commenting aloud on
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| | prices dropped with every step that took
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| the effects this was having on my
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| | me closer to the car until I was being
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| backside and Ashok laughed saying that it
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| | offered beautifully printed T-shirts for
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| was good exercise.
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| | around 70p each. They flocked around the
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| Well it soon became apparent that honking
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| | car hoping for a few pence that I really
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| on the horn was a way of life and a way
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| | didn't have, until Ashok drove off. It
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| of getting people to pull out of your
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| | was very humbling.
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| way. It didn't seem to matter if a road
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| | Did I mention that the journey to Agra
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| similar to our own dual carriageways were
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| | was an experience never to be forgotten?
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| full we merely pulled over to drive at
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| | Well it was nothing compared to the
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| speed toward the oncoming traffic, cars,
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| | journey back! We did the whole thing over
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| bicycles camels etc, it was awesome and
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| | but in the dark. It appears that you then
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| will always be the most memorable car
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| | use your headlights to get people out of
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| drive that I have ever experienced. Most
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| | the way instead of the car horn! So we
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| of the lorries had "horn please" painted
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| | were driving at speed in the dark with no
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| on the back of them. Ashok weaved in and
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| | headlights for 150 miles. Pedestrians and
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| out of the traffic, his hand never far
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| | animals still littered the roads and I
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| from the hooter. It was like having a
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| | didn't see them until we had passed them,
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| police escort only without the police.
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| | so I can't imagine how Ashok avoided
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| After the initial excitement of the taxi
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| | them!
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| ride of a lifetime had subsided, I took
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| | It was wonderful to see the culture by
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| time to absorb the scenery from the
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| | night. Little street fires lit the faces
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| window of the cab. There was poverty in
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| | of their owners with a yellow hue. The
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| abundance wherever you looked. Hundreds
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| | moon which was also yellow was lit from
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| of people lined the streets. Cattle
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| | underneath.
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| wandered about like jaywalkers and now
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| | On a few occasions I saw hundreds of
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| and again you would come across a dead,
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| | white lights adorning trees and
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| half- eaten dog, infested with flies
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| | buildings, pulsing music accompanied
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| lying in the road. Victims of Ashok's
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| | these scenes; Ashok told me that this
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| previous drives one assumes! I have never
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| | represented "better off," people getting
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| seen so many people crammed into
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| | married. Fireworks announced the success
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| windowless buses, lorries or trailers
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| | of the weddings. About half a dozen
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| being pulled by tractors. Donkeys pulled
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| | ceremonies were happening that I had
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| or carried loads that took up one entire
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| | witnessed that evening so goodness knows
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| side of the road, while camels took even
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| | how many more were going on! We also saw
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| bigger ones. Everywhere that you looked
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| | a less grand wedding happening on the
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| there were hundreds of people not doing
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| | roadside; the grandest thing about this
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| anything in particular.
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| | one was the flower garland around the
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| The fume filled air was brutal on your
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| | young bride's head! It was truly breath
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| lungs. Diesel fumes choked out of
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| | taking to observe the way of life for
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| vehicles in big black puffs. The humidity
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| | these people by night.
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| and the fumes made your eyes, throat and
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| | Ashok got me back to Delhi in good time.
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| nose sting. I am surprised that I managed
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| | We even had a chance to stop at the
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| to remain conscious! I was not fairing
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| | roadside cafe for a cup of tea on the
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| very well at all. Apart from suffering
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| | way. Well it wasn't a café, as we know
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| from the effects mentioned above I was
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| | it back home; it was more like a large
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| also dehydrating, sweating out more
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| | marquee at a craft fair. I was more than
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| liquid than I could replace. I am sure
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| | a little dubious about drinking anything
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| there are people out there who would find
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| | that I hadn't prepared myself.
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| the whole thing rather amusing as I being
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| | I had grown quite used to Ashok during
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| an intrepid professional world traveller
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| | the course of the day and was sorry to
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| (I had actually visited 108 countries on
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| | have to say goodbye to him. He had looked
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| my previous trip!) who was feeling sick.
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| | after me incredibly well and I tipped him
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| I asked Ashok to pull over so that I
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| | accordingly.
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| could get a drink of water, he agreed but
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| | It was 10.10pm (Indian time) when we
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| it was a good 30 or 40 miles before he
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| | arrived at Delhi. The flight to Bombay
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| actually did. The reason he had waited so
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| | was delayed for an hour. I have to say
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| long was so that we could purchase sealed
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| | that of all the planes that we used
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| water from a reputable source rather than
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| | throughout the trip, air India was the
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| risk drinking something that might make
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| | only one I felt really nervous about.
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| me suffer later.
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| | There was quite a lot of turbulence
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| I was surprised to see raw meat being
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| | during the whole flight. I remember
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| displayed on the roadside, uncovered,
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| | forcing myself to try and sleep,
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| soaking up the dirt and fumes of the
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| | reckoning that if I was going to die I
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| surroundings.
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| | would rather be asleep when it happened!
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| What I noticed more than anything else
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| | I forgot to look and see if Ashok was the
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| was the overall calmness of everyone
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| | pilot when we departed from the plane.
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| around us. There were no signs of stress
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| | Thank you Ashok for making it happen.
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