Fleeting Visit to Taj Mahal

In my capacity as the UK Director of Operations forcertain time (apart from us of course!) so many people
One World Tours Limited, I am often asked about thetolerating one another it was incredible.
destinations I have been to and how it all began in theI had recovered a little after having something to drink
first place. 10 years ago I embarked on my second tripand was as excited to see eagles flying around in the
around the world and I suppose you could say that thissky. I watched as people threw bananas to the wild
is where it truly all began. Here is my first experiencemonkeys in the same way as we feed the ducks
of India.back home.
I thought that visiting the Seven Wonders of the worldEverywhere you looked people were making good
in eight days would be a fun and challenging thing touse of all the resources around them. Once we had
do. Having decided with my sponsors the airlines and abroken free from the towns I had a chance to take
chain of leading world-wide hotels it was decided thatnotice of the countryside. It was fascinating to see the
the Seven Wonders of the World were the Taj Mahal,Indian ladies with huge loads balanced on their heads
the Great Wall of China, the Leaning Tower of Pisa,whilst carrying their babies in their arms. It was a
the Golden Gate Bridge, The Empire State Building,wonderful thing to experience and would have been
Sydney Opera House and the Pyramids of Egypt. Thisperfect if only it wasn't so difficult to breathe. Seeing
would notch up a staggering 42,000 miles in 8 justthe way that life was lived in India made me realise
days.what a bunch of whingers we are in the west!
The first of my many flights was on schedule and I leftWe were only 11 kilometres from reaching the Taj
Heathrow at around 10.25pm on the 17th of February. IMahal when we experienced a huge traffic jam that
was handed my overnight package by theeven the psychopathic driver could not get me
stewardess and given a meal. It didn't take long beforethrough! He had a few frantic words with one of the
I drifted off to sleep; I had deliberately got myself uplocals and informed me that the road was blocked due
early that morning to ensure that I would be able toto the fact that two ministers were visiting the area.
sleep on the first flight. I awoke half way through theAshok did a sharp U- turn and tried to find an
flight feeling incredibly nauseous but that was down toalternative route. Unfortunately there wasn't one and
the anti- malaria tablets more than anything else.we had to wait patiently in the queue like everyone
It wasn't long before I arrived at Delhi airport and inelse. The driver had driven his socks off to get me to
order to continue on to the next stage of the journey Iwithin an 11-kilometre radius of the Taj with time to
had to find out how much a taxi would cost to takespare, and for one horrible moment it looked as if I
me to Agra and back. There were plenty of transportwas not going to get any closer. It was an awful
kiosks whose occupants frantically beckoned to me inshame because he had risked our lives along with
order to persuade me to use their services. The firstthose of the others we passed along the way,
one that caught my attention offered me his "top ofincluding the animals! He must have felt the same but
the range car", which included air- conditioning. I gladlywasn't that easily defeated. Not long after I finally
accepted this as it worked out at half the price I hadarrived at the first major landmark of the trip! Ashok
expected to pay. I was then told apologetically that thisdropped me off and said that he would find
car was not available and was offered the next bestsomewhere to park and allowed just 15 minutes to
thing at a cheaper rate, still with air conditioning.take photos etc. I paid the entrance fee; the equivalent
Apparently this car was not available either and thisof 75 pence, received a free key ring and made my
went on until I was finally offered their cheapest car ofway to the Taj, ande had my bags searched by the
all, which by this time I would have agreed to anything.guards.
The driver of this particular vehicle was summonedI was very impressed by the stunning creation of love
and flatly refused to take me saying that it would notthat stood before me, definitely the stuff that fairytales
be possible to get to Agra and back in time to get meare made of! I was aware that I did not have too
to my next flight. It was beginning to look like I was notmuch time so quickly set about taking photographs of
going to get to visit the very first Wonder on the list!the beauty before me in order to satisfy the publicity
The taxi drivers of this particular kiosk told me that Irequirements for my sponsors.
should try a different kiosk, which is exactly whatI had designed a banner, which was to be
ended up doing. I was told that there was a driverphotographed at each of the locations. When I
willing to attempt to take me the 300 miles in about 8unfolded it in the grounds of the Taj Mahal I was told
½ hours for the price of £130 (GBP). I did notvery abruptly that banners were not acceptable and
really have choice and was still £70 better offthat the guards at the front gate should have taken it
than I thought. We were whisked off to meet ouraway from me. Someone did show me somewhere
driver for the day and the man that would hopefullythat I could hold the banner up in order to take a quick
make it possible for us to reach our first Wonder ofphotograph but I declined agreeing that I should respect
the trip.their wishes, as I was a visitor of their country. The
It soon became very apparent that if anyone wasbanner gave a brief outline of the trip and advertised
going to get me there and back in time it would mostthe sponsor's names but they weren't to know that it
certainly be Ashok, the driver. I was barely threecould have been a political statement for all they knew.
minutes from the airport when he started honking hisI also couldn't risk getting into trouble so early on in the
horn like crazy. At first I thought this was a sign oftrip!
aggression as is customary in our native country. I trulyI took enough photographs to prove that we had been
believed at one point that I was going to die in thisthere, along with a duplicate set in case the first ones
foreign country due to manic way that Ashok handleddid not come out and then one more lot for luck! The
the car. Where ever possible he drove like a mansun was beginning to set and it gave everything
possessed reaching speeds of up to 120mph in somearound that wonderful orange glow, a fitting end to a
cases. This of course made me very apprehensivebrief but memorable experience.
for the first hour or so of the journey, my underpantsAs promised Ashok was waiting for me and guided
taking the full impact of my lack of faith!me back to the cab. A throng of brown -faced
There did not appear to be any rules and regulationschildren begged me to purchase their wares. They
where driving in India was concerned, Ashok seemedsurrounded me, I found it a little overwhelming to say
to make up his own rules as he went along. Hittingthe least. I was not sure if we had enough money to
bumps in the road at speed saw me bashing my headcomplete the trip at this moment in time so I couldn't
on the roof on more than one occasion. I rememberafford to give away one penny of what I did have so I
commenting aloud on the effects this was having onkept having to refuse them. Their prices dropped with
my backside and Ashok laughed saying that it wasevery step that took me closer to the car until I was
good exercise.being offered beautifully printed T-shirts for around 70p
Well it soon became apparent that honking on the horneach. They flocked around the car hoping for a few
was a way of life and a way of getting people to pullpence that I really didn't have, until Ashok drove off. It
out of your way. It didn't seem to matter if a roadwas very humbling.
similar to our own dual carriageways were full weDid I mention that the journey to Agra was an
merely pulled over to drive at speed toward theexperience never to be forgotten? Well it was nothing
oncoming traffic, cars, bicycles camels etc, it wascompared to the journey back! We did the whole thing
awesome and will always be the most memorable carover but in the dark. It appears that you then use your
drive that I have ever experienced. Most of the lorriesheadlights to get people out of the way instead of the
had "horn please" painted on the back of them. Ashokcar horn! So we were driving at speed in the dark with
weaved in and out of the traffic, his hand never farno headlights for 150 miles. Pedestrians and animals still
from the hooter. It was like having a police escort onlylittered the roads and I didn't see them until we had
without the police.passed them, so I can't imagine how Ashok avoided
After the initial excitement of the taxi ride of a lifetimethem!
had subsided, I took time to absorb the scenery fromIt was wonderful to see the culture by night. Little
the window of the cab. There was poverty instreet fires lit the faces of their owners with a yellow
abundance wherever you looked. Hundreds of peoplehue. The moon which was also yellow was lit from
lined the streets. Cattle wandered about likeunderneath.
jaywalkers and now and again you would comeOn a few occasions I saw hundreds of white lights
across a dead, half- eaten dog, infested with flies lyingadorning trees and buildings, pulsing music
in the road. Victims of Ashok's previous drives oneaccompanied these scenes; Ashok told me that this
assumes! I have never seen so many peoplerepresented "better off," people getting married.
crammed into windowless buses, lorries or trailersFireworks announced the success of the weddings.
being pulled by tractors. Donkeys pulled or carriedAbout half a dozen ceremonies were happening that I
loads that took up one entire side of the road, whilehad witnessed that evening so goodness knows how
camels took even bigger ones. Everywhere that youmany more were going on! We also saw a less grand
looked there were hundreds of people not doingwedding happening on the roadside; the grandest thing
anything in particular.about this one was the flower garland around the
The fume filled air was brutal on your lungs. Dieselyoung bride's head! It was truly breath taking to
fumes choked out of vehicles in big black puffs. Theobserve the way of life for these people by night.
humidity and the fumes made your eyes, throat andAshok got me back to Delhi in good time. We even
nose sting. I am surprised that I managed to remainhad a chance to stop at the roadside cafe for a cup
conscious! I was not fairing very well at all. Apart fromof tea on the way. Well it wasn't a café, as we
suffering from the effects mentioned above I wasknow it back home; it was more like a large marquee
also dehydrating, sweating out more liquid than I couldat a craft fair. I was more than a little dubious about
replace. I am sure there are people out there whodrinking anything that I hadn't prepared myself.
would find the whole thing rather amusing as I being anI had grown quite used to Ashok during the course of
intrepid professional world traveller (I had actuallythe day and was sorry to have to say goodbye to
visited 108 countries on my previous trip!) who washim. He had looked after me incredibly well and I tipped
feeling sick. I asked Ashok to pull over so that I couldhim accordingly.
get a drink of water, he agreed but it was a good 30It was 10.10pm (Indian time) when we arrived at Delhi.
or 40 miles before he actually did. The reason he hadThe flight to Bombay was delayed for an hour. I have
waited so long was so that we could purchase sealedto say that of all the planes that we used throughout
water from a reputable source rather than risk drinkingthe trip, air India was the only one I felt really nervous
something that might make me suffer later.about. There was quite a lot of turbulence during the
I was surprised to see raw meat being displayed onwhole flight. I remember forcing myself to try and
the roadside, uncovered, soaking up the dirt and fumessleep, reckoning that if I was going to die I would rather
of the surroundings.be asleep when it happened! I forgot to look and see if
What I noticed more than anything else was theAshok was the pilot when we departed from the
overall calmness of everyone around us. There wereplane. Thank you Ashok for making it happen.
no signs of stress or urgency to be somewhere at a