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Fleeting Visit to Taj Mahal

In my capacity as the UK Director of or urgency to be somewhere at a certain
Operations for One World Tours Limited, I time (apart from us of course!) so many
am often asked about the destinations I people tolerating one another it was
have been to and how it all began in the incredible.
first place. 10 years ago I embarked on I had recovered a little after having
my second trip around the world and I something to drink and was as excited to
suppose you could say that this is where see eagles flying around in the sky. I
it truly all began. Here is my first watched as people threw bananas to the
experience of India. wild monkeys in the same way as we feed
I thought that visiting the Seven the ducks back home.
Wonders of the world in eight days would Everywhere you looked people were making
be a fun and challenging thing to do. good use of all the resources around
Having decided with my sponsors the them. Once we had broken free from the
airlines and a chain of leading towns I had a chance to take notice of
world-wide hotels it was decided that the the countryside. It was fascinating to
Seven Wonders of the World were the Taj see the Indian ladies with huge loads
Mahal, the Great Wall of China, the balanced on their heads whilst carrying
Leaning Tower of Pisa, the Golden Gate their babies in their arms. It was a
Bridge, The Empire State Building, Sydney wonderful thing to experience and would
Opera House and the Pyramids of Egypt. have been perfect if only it wasn't so
This would notch up a staggering 42,000 difficult to breathe. Seeing the way that
miles in 8 just days. life was lived in India made me realise
The first of my many flights was on what a bunch of whingers we are in the
schedule and I left Heathrow at around west!
10.25pm on the 17th of February. I was We were only 11 kilometres from reaching
handed my overnight package by the the Taj Mahal when we experienced a huge
stewardess and given a meal. It didn't traffic jam that even the psychopathic
take long before I drifted off to sleep; driver could not get me through! He had a
I had deliberately got myself up early few frantic words with one of the locals
that morning to ensure that I would be and informed me that the road was blocked
able to sleep on the first flight. I due to the fact that two ministers were
awoke half way through the flight feeling visiting the area.
incredibly nauseous but that was down to Ashok did a sharp U- turn and tried to
the anti- malaria tablets more than find an alternative route. Unfortunately
anything else. there wasn't one and we had to wait
It wasn't long before I arrived at Delhi patiently in the queue like everyone
airport and in order to continue on to else. The driver had driven his socks off
the next stage of the journey I had to to get me to within an 11-kilometre
find out how much a taxi would cost to radius of the Taj with time to spare, and
take me to Agra and back. There were for one horrible moment it looked as if I
plenty of transport kiosks whose was not going to get any closer. It was
occupants frantically beckoned to me in an awful shame because he had risked our
order to persuade me to use their lives along with those of the others we
services. The first one that caught my passed along the way, including the
attention offered me his "top of the animals! He must have felt the same but
range car", which included air- wasn't that easily defeated. Not long
conditioning. I gladly accepted this as after I finally arrived at the first
it worked out at half the price I had major landmark of the trip! Ashok dropped
expected to pay. I was then told me off and said that he would find
apologetically that this car was not somewhere to park and allowed just 15
available and was offered the next best minutes to take photos etc. I paid the
thing at a cheaper rate, still with air entrance fee; the equivalent of 75 pence,
conditioning. Apparently this car was not received a free key ring and made my way
available either and this went on until I to the Taj, ande had my bags searched by
was finally offered their cheapest car of the guards.
all, which by this time I would have I was very impressed by the stunning
agreed to anything. The driver of this creation of love that stood before me,
particular vehicle was summoned and definitely the stuff that fairytales are
flatly refused to take me saying that it made of! I was aware that I did not have
would not be possible to get to Agra and too much time so quickly set about taking
back in time to get me to my next flight. photographs of the beauty before me in
It was beginning to look like I was not order to satisfy the publicity
going to get to visit the very first requirements for my sponsors.
Wonder on the list! The taxi drivers of I had designed a banner, which was to be
this particular kiosk told me that I photographed at each of the locations.
should try a different kiosk, which is When I unfolded it in the grounds of the
exactly what ended up doing. I was told Taj Mahal I was told very abruptly that
that there was a driver willing to banners were not acceptable and that the
attempt to take me the 300 miles in about guards at the front gate should have
8 ½ hours for the price of £130 (GBP). taken it away from me. Someone did show
I did not really have choice and was me somewhere that I could hold the banner
still £70 better off than I thought. We up in order to take a quick photograph
were whisked off to meet our driver for but I declined agreeing that I should
the day and the man that would hopefully respect their wishes, as I was a visitor
make it possible for us to reach our of their country. The banner gave a brief
first Wonder of the trip. outline of the trip and advertised the
It soon became very apparent that if sponsor's names but they weren't to know
anyone was going to get me there and back that it could have been a political
in time it would most certainly be Ashok, statement for all they knew. I also
the driver. I was barely three minutes couldn't risk getting into trouble so
from the airport when he started honking early on in the trip!
his horn like crazy. At first I thought I took enough photographs to prove that
this was a sign of aggression as is we had been there, along with a duplicate
customary in our native country. I truly set in case the first ones did not come
believed at one point that I was going to out and then one more lot for luck! The
die in this foreign country due to manic sun was beginning to set and it gave
way that Ashok handled the car. Where everything around that wonderful orange
ever possible he drove like a man glow, a fitting end to a brief but
possessed reaching speeds of up to 120mph memorable experience.
in some cases. This of course made me As promised Ashok was waiting for me and
very apprehensive for the first hour or guided me back to the cab. A throng of
so of the journey, my underpants taking brown -faced children begged me to
the full impact of my lack of faith! purchase their wares. They surrounded me,
There did not appear to be any rules and I found it a little overwhelming to say
regulations where driving in India was the least. I was not sure if we had
concerned, Ashok seemed to make up his enough money to complete the trip at this
own rules as he went along. Hitting bumps moment in time so I couldn't afford to
in the road at speed saw me bashing my give away one penny of what I did have so
head on the roof on more than one I kept having to refuse them. Their
occasion. I remember commenting aloud on prices dropped with every step that took
the effects this was having on my me closer to the car until I was being
backside and Ashok laughed saying that it offered beautifully printed T-shirts for
was good exercise. around 70p each. They flocked around the
Well it soon became apparent that honking car hoping for a few pence that I really
on the horn was a way of life and a way didn't have, until Ashok drove off. It
of getting people to pull out of your was very humbling.
way. It didn't seem to matter if a road Did I mention that the journey to Agra
similar to our own dual carriageways were was an experience never to be forgotten?
full we merely pulled over to drive at Well it was nothing compared to the
speed toward the oncoming traffic, cars, journey back! We did the whole thing over
bicycles camels etc, it was awesome and but in the dark. It appears that you then
will always be the most memorable car use your headlights to get people out of
drive that I have ever experienced. Most the way instead of the car horn! So we
of the lorries had "horn please" painted were driving at speed in the dark with no
on the back of them. Ashok weaved in and headlights for 150 miles. Pedestrians and
out of the traffic, his hand never far animals still littered the roads and I
from the hooter. It was like having a didn't see them until we had passed them,
police escort only without the police. so I can't imagine how Ashok avoided
After the initial excitement of the taxi them!
ride of a lifetime had subsided, I took It was wonderful to see the culture by
time to absorb the scenery from the night. Little street fires lit the faces
window of the cab. There was poverty in of their owners with a yellow hue. The
abundance wherever you looked. Hundreds moon which was also yellow was lit from
of people lined the streets. Cattle underneath.
wandered about like jaywalkers and now On a few occasions I saw hundreds of
and again you would come across a dead, white lights adorning trees and
half- eaten dog, infested with flies buildings, pulsing music accompanied
lying in the road. Victims of Ashok's these scenes; Ashok told me that this
previous drives one assumes! I have never represented "better off," people getting
seen so many people crammed into married. Fireworks announced the success
windowless buses, lorries or trailers of the weddings. About half a dozen
being pulled by tractors. Donkeys pulled ceremonies were happening that I had
or carried loads that took up one entire witnessed that evening so goodness knows
side of the road, while camels took even how many more were going on! We also saw
bigger ones. Everywhere that you looked a less grand wedding happening on the
there were hundreds of people not doing roadside; the grandest thing about this
anything in particular. one was the flower garland around the
The fume filled air was brutal on your young bride's head! It was truly breath
lungs. Diesel fumes choked out of taking to observe the way of life for
vehicles in big black puffs. The humidity these people by night.
and the fumes made your eyes, throat and Ashok got me back to Delhi in good time.
nose sting. I am surprised that I managed We even had a chance to stop at the
to remain conscious! I was not fairing roadside cafe for a cup of tea on the
very well at all. Apart from suffering way. Well it wasn't a café, as we know
from the effects mentioned above I was it back home; it was more like a large
also dehydrating, sweating out more marquee at a craft fair. I was more than
liquid than I could replace. I am sure a little dubious about drinking anything
there are people out there who would find that I hadn't prepared myself.
the whole thing rather amusing as I being I had grown quite used to Ashok during
an intrepid professional world traveller the course of the day and was sorry to
(I had actually visited 108 countries on have to say goodbye to him. He had looked
my previous trip!) who was feeling sick. after me incredibly well and I tipped him
I asked Ashok to pull over so that I accordingly.
could get a drink of water, he agreed but It was 10.10pm (Indian time) when we
it was a good 30 or 40 miles before he arrived at Delhi. The flight to Bombay
actually did. The reason he had waited so was delayed for an hour. I have to say
long was so that we could purchase sealed that of all the planes that we used
water from a reputable source rather than throughout the trip, air India was the
risk drinking something that might make only one I felt really nervous about.
me suffer later. There was quite a lot of turbulence
I was surprised to see raw meat being during the whole flight. I remember
displayed on the roadside, uncovered, forcing myself to try and sleep,
soaking up the dirt and fumes of the reckoning that if I was going to die I
surroundings. would rather be asleep when it happened!
What I noticed more than anything else I forgot to look and see if Ashok was the
was the overall calmness of everyone pilot when we departed from the plane.
around us. There were no signs of stress Thank you Ashok for making it happen.




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